Post by Leafy on Feb 25, 2009 13:15:09 GMT -5
There are constant questions on what you should do to your 98 custom so I'm going to do a nice quick run through on what to do and if what order.
Free Mods (or really cheap at least) do these first
1. Polish your internal instructions, [a href="http://www.pbnation.com/showthread.php
2. Remove your trigger return spring (do not do if you have an e-grip) the sear getting reset will reset the trigger. The trigger return spring is the small spring in front(front is the side the paint comes out of) the trigger.
1st Tier Mods These are the basics that pretty much any one should get.
1. A new barrel, this will run you between 40 and 160 bucks. On the budget side I recommend the j&j ceramic, shoots amazing for a 40 dollar barrel. On the upper end I recommend the smart parts FREAK kit, its a good quality barrel kit and very affordable (its also the cheapest to transfer to different threaded guns).
2. HPA tank these also gun the same gambit of prices you can get a cheap 48 cubic inch 3000 psi tank for 40 bucks on actionvillage. But If you have the money I suggest you go with a nice 68 ci 4500 psi carbon fiber tank in the neighbor hood or $120, they're much lighter and hold a lot more air. HPA will greatly increase your consistency which in turn will improve your accuracy. It also ends up being cheaper in the end since most fields fill air for free but charge for CO2 fills.
2.5 Spring kit. The brand on this really doesnt matter, just put the lightest one in that you can still chrono to 300 with. This will increase your consistency and efficiency.
3. Hopper. There are a lot of choices on this one, at this time they cyclone is no longer even close to the most affordable option so I'm not even going to give it a recommendation at all (but i will compare other hoppers to it). On the cheap end of forcefed hoppers you have the ricochet apache for $20 and it feeds ~20 bps (the stock cyclone cost $50 and feeds 15). in the middle range you have a Halo B or the VLocity both go for 50-100 bucks and feed over 20 bps. And on the high end you have the Empire Magna, Prophecy and the Dye Rotor, all feed 30+ bps and cost 100-150 (maxed out cyclone ends up costing 150-200 and loads 25-28 bps).
4. Shoot Faster. You have 2 choices, e-grip or response trigger (r/t). The r/t offers a simulated full auto rate of fire around up to 25 bps (for most users), however fields are starting to ban them due to complaints of over shooting, it sells for $65, it is not tournament legal. The e-grip offers the ultimate is marker control, you get the choice of multiple firing modes and dead on rates of fire form 10-30 bps (as in you can shoot exactly as fast as you want). It allows you to easily walk the trigger and in semi (as allowed on most fields) the average user can expect 12-18 bps. The e-grip goes for $85-$100 depending on where you buy it and what brand. There are 2 brands the WAS from tippmann and the APE. The APE is water resistant, uses less battery power, and has more firing modes (the usefulness of them are questionable at best).
5. Double Trigger. I personally suggest the APE magnetic trigger just because I love the feel of magnetic triggers. There are other choices like the rufus dawg and tech-t fang. The primary thing to look for is if it has a ball bearing or not, good ones will. The tippmann products trigger is ok but it needs to be sanded down to feel comfortable. If you get a trigger without a return system you'll need to do either the magnet mod http%3A%2F%2Fmodel98.org%2Fmodifications%2F9521.php%3F or the the pen spring mod http%3A%2F%2Fmodel98.org%2Fmodifications%2F9523.php%3F
6. On/Off asa. This is more convenience but it will improve the feel of you gun and make it noticeably lighter. Just make sure it a pin push style (it pushes the valve pin on your tank to turn it on and off) and that it has a purge. One with a rail mount is even better because it gives you more adjustment on the length of your setup for comfort. It will also save you tank's threads. Use macro line when you put it on (DO NOT USE MACRO IF YOU USE CO2!).
Less than worth it mods. These mods arent really worth the money.
1. Bolt and Power tube. Most bolts and all power tubes perform the same or worse than the stock ones. The three bolts that perform better are, in order starting with the best; Supa Fly bolt, Rufus Dawg Wicked Bolt and Powertube (its just a stock tube modified to work with the bolt), and the Orange Howitzer bolt. These show a small increase in efficiency and accuracy, but not warranted to a 20 dollar price tag.
2.Vertical adapter and regulator. It will increase your consistency but without the low pressure kit there are very few regs that will output the 650+ psi (Palmer Stabilizer and AKA Sidewinder) to make the gun cycle. No the Evil Detonator will not work.
3. Low Pressure kit. you will get a few more shots per tank, but your overall efficiency wont increase very much. The kit lowers pressure but increase volume so approximately the same amount of air is being used but due to the lower pressure requirements you can shoot till their is a lower pressure in your tank.
4.Lightweight Hammer. It reduces kick, if you want that and you have the money theres really no reason not to, theres just not a whole lot of reasons to spend that money.
5. Stock and Remote. This one is all personal preference. I personally think it makes the marker too front heavy and the stock puts it in a position where it doesn't feel natural.
6.Expansion Chamber. Just don't get one, period. There's a better way to fix the problems associated with co2 (snow flaking and killing orings), if you're forced to use it. Its called and anti siphon tube, much cheaper than an x-chamber or a remote line (the other way to fix it) and it works better. The x-chamber will cause shoot down and loss of efficiency when using hpa.
Any other suggestions or questions
Free Mods (or really cheap at least) do these first
1. Polish your internal instructions, [a href="http://www.pbnation.com/showthread.php
PBf Feedback:
t=2248907"]http://www.pbnation.com/showthread.phpPBf Feedback:
t=2248907[/a]2. Remove your trigger return spring (do not do if you have an e-grip) the sear getting reset will reset the trigger. The trigger return spring is the small spring in front(front is the side the paint comes out of) the trigger.
1st Tier Mods These are the basics that pretty much any one should get.
1. A new barrel, this will run you between 40 and 160 bucks. On the budget side I recommend the j&j ceramic, shoots amazing for a 40 dollar barrel. On the upper end I recommend the smart parts FREAK kit, its a good quality barrel kit and very affordable (its also the cheapest to transfer to different threaded guns).
2. HPA tank these also gun the same gambit of prices you can get a cheap 48 cubic inch 3000 psi tank for 40 bucks on actionvillage. But If you have the money I suggest you go with a nice 68 ci 4500 psi carbon fiber tank in the neighbor hood or $120, they're much lighter and hold a lot more air. HPA will greatly increase your consistency which in turn will improve your accuracy. It also ends up being cheaper in the end since most fields fill air for free but charge for CO2 fills.
2.5 Spring kit. The brand on this really doesnt matter, just put the lightest one in that you can still chrono to 300 with. This will increase your consistency and efficiency.
3. Hopper. There are a lot of choices on this one, at this time they cyclone is no longer even close to the most affordable option so I'm not even going to give it a recommendation at all (but i will compare other hoppers to it). On the cheap end of forcefed hoppers you have the ricochet apache for $20 and it feeds ~20 bps (the stock cyclone cost $50 and feeds 15). in the middle range you have a Halo B or the VLocity both go for 50-100 bucks and feed over 20 bps. And on the high end you have the Empire Magna, Prophecy and the Dye Rotor, all feed 30+ bps and cost 100-150 (maxed out cyclone ends up costing 150-200 and loads 25-28 bps).
4. Shoot Faster. You have 2 choices, e-grip or response trigger (r/t). The r/t offers a simulated full auto rate of fire around up to 25 bps (for most users), however fields are starting to ban them due to complaints of over shooting, it sells for $65, it is not tournament legal. The e-grip offers the ultimate is marker control, you get the choice of multiple firing modes and dead on rates of fire form 10-30 bps (as in you can shoot exactly as fast as you want). It allows you to easily walk the trigger and in semi (as allowed on most fields) the average user can expect 12-18 bps. The e-grip goes for $85-$100 depending on where you buy it and what brand. There are 2 brands the WAS from tippmann and the APE. The APE is water resistant, uses less battery power, and has more firing modes (the usefulness of them are questionable at best).
5. Double Trigger. I personally suggest the APE magnetic trigger just because I love the feel of magnetic triggers. There are other choices like the rufus dawg and tech-t fang. The primary thing to look for is if it has a ball bearing or not, good ones will. The tippmann products trigger is ok but it needs to be sanded down to feel comfortable. If you get a trigger without a return system you'll need to do either the magnet mod http%3A%2F%2Fmodel98.org%2Fmodifications%2F9521.php%3F or the the pen spring mod http%3A%2F%2Fmodel98.org%2Fmodifications%2F9523.php%3F
6. On/Off asa. This is more convenience but it will improve the feel of you gun and make it noticeably lighter. Just make sure it a pin push style (it pushes the valve pin on your tank to turn it on and off) and that it has a purge. One with a rail mount is even better because it gives you more adjustment on the length of your setup for comfort. It will also save you tank's threads. Use macro line when you put it on (DO NOT USE MACRO IF YOU USE CO2!).
Less than worth it mods. These mods arent really worth the money.
1. Bolt and Power tube. Most bolts and all power tubes perform the same or worse than the stock ones. The three bolts that perform better are, in order starting with the best; Supa Fly bolt, Rufus Dawg Wicked Bolt and Powertube (its just a stock tube modified to work with the bolt), and the Orange Howitzer bolt. These show a small increase in efficiency and accuracy, but not warranted to a 20 dollar price tag.
2.Vertical adapter and regulator. It will increase your consistency but without the low pressure kit there are very few regs that will output the 650+ psi (Palmer Stabilizer and AKA Sidewinder) to make the gun cycle. No the Evil Detonator will not work.
3. Low Pressure kit. you will get a few more shots per tank, but your overall efficiency wont increase very much. The kit lowers pressure but increase volume so approximately the same amount of air is being used but due to the lower pressure requirements you can shoot till their is a lower pressure in your tank.
4.Lightweight Hammer. It reduces kick, if you want that and you have the money theres really no reason not to, theres just not a whole lot of reasons to spend that money.
5. Stock and Remote. This one is all personal preference. I personally think it makes the marker too front heavy and the stock puts it in a position where it doesn't feel natural.
6.Expansion Chamber. Just don't get one, period. There's a better way to fix the problems associated with co2 (snow flaking and killing orings), if you're forced to use it. Its called and anti siphon tube, much cheaper than an x-chamber or a remote line (the other way to fix it) and it works better. The x-chamber will cause shoot down and loss of efficiency when using hpa.
Any other suggestions or questions
PBf Feedback:
Post them up.