|
Post by magmaster on Apr 2, 2009 22:34:28 GMT -5
currently i'm building a spyder pump....when everything arrives. any advice would be nice. so far i've come up with removing the pin betweent he bolt and the hammer, putting a spring behind the bolt, and hooking the pump arm to the bolt... but then i still have a semi hammer PBf Feedback: any thoughts PBf Feedback: next making a mag pistol just need a horizontal asa for the front rail and a short twistlok barrel.(like the ones that came on the minimag as stock barrels) and last cocker pneaumatics.... i have a boat load of parts... just don't know how they should go and how to tune!... must read up on that! any suggestions would be great and the entire screw set for a spyder mr-1 if you have it laying around....
|
|
Leafy
Moderator
I will destroy you.
Posts: 200
|
Post by Leafy on Apr 3, 2009 6:32:58 GMT -5
I'd say when doing the pump dont take out the bolt pin, slot the hammer. then to eliminate blowback drill a penny to the exact size of the valve pin and jb weld it onto the valve. then you'd have a real pump instead of a ghetto one.
|
|
|
Post by magmaster on Apr 3, 2009 10:01:57 GMT -5
i hate to be dense but could you draw this out for me and send a pic. Your idea sounds harder but better becasue i want the gun to function as a real pump not half-ass. I would greatly appreciate it.
|
|
|
Post by oldironmudder on Apr 3, 2009 10:17:02 GMT -5
What most folks do when they convert a Spyder to pump is use JBWeld to build the valve pin up & sand it down to seal the blowback output from the valve. Then they make a slot in the striker for the bolt to allow the bolt to go back into the forward position while the striker is in the cocked position. Attach a pump handle & rod to the bolt & rock on. The slotted striker keeps both thew bolt & striker from rotating in the bores. Which keeps the sear catchs where it should be & the bolt air inlet facing down.
My Spyder Pump will be a little different. Will cost more than most, I still need to spend about $150 in parts before milling. Its really kinda half assing it but at the same time more simple.
|
|
Leafy
Moderator
I will destroy you.
Posts: 200
|
Post by Leafy on Apr 3, 2009 10:17:54 GMT -5
you're pretty much making it into a mid blocked cocker pump, you have to slot the hammer the length of the bolt travel, which will take about a gazillion cutting wheels on your dremel (DO NOT USE DIAMOND COATED! NEVER USE DIAMOND COATED CUTTERS ON STEEL OR IRON! trust me I'm an engineer[in training]) then you have to take your valve pin and run it through a drill bit sizer to fine the correct size drill bit it'll most likely be a # size drill bit not fractionals (ie #10 not 1/8") then you drill through the middle of a penny and jb weld it onto the valve body with the valve pin through the hole and that stops the blowback gas. the only pita part is slotting the hammer, if you can get on a real mill its a joke how easy it is to do though (like on a real mill its like a 10 minute job). If you google it I think there's a few walk throughs with pictures.
|
|
|
Post by oldironmudder on Apr 3, 2009 10:21:50 GMT -5
Opps, forgot the rest of your post. Mags, you kinda got me there but have you talked to anyone on AO that does custom work on them PBf Feedback: Might look into getting a duckbill ASA & mount to the rail. Your cocker pneumatics, the lpr feeds the 3way & that controls the ram. You could use them for your spyder pump & make a pneumatic-assist spyder pump. I plan to build one if I like the plain pump enough. MR1 screws, I have alot of MR1 parts, I think everything but a body to make a complete marker. Give me a few minutes & ill get some pics.
|
|
|
Post by oldironmudder on Apr 3, 2009 10:23:42 GMT -5
Barrel: Screws & misc: PM me or catch me on AIM if you wanna talk about them.
|
|
|
Post by magmaster on Apr 3, 2009 10:31:00 GMT -5
i'm at work right now and can't see the pics due to the damn web filter here but i will get with you as soon as i get home to my unfiltered net. Thanks for all the great info!
|
|
Leafy
Moderator
I will destroy you.
Posts: 200
|
Post by Leafy on Apr 3, 2009 14:15:43 GMT -5
you can get all the screws in the hardware store for the MR1 most are either 5 mm or 10-32 I cant remember which, watch the frame screws I've seen a total of 6 frames fall off from the threads being striped on the body, one of them was one of my x's.
|
|
|
Post by magmaster on Apr 3, 2009 14:48:37 GMT -5
while we're at it i don't guess anyone has a single spyder trigger frame with internals they are wanting to sell/ trade off PBf Feedback: I have bob long frame i want to switch over too but i only have double frames and i hate to cut the double trigger unless i just absolutely have to...
|
|
Leafy
Moderator
I will destroy you.
Posts: 200
|
Post by Leafy on Apr 3, 2009 15:43:19 GMT -5
while we're at it i don't guess anyone has a single spyder trigger frame with internals they are wanting to sell/ trade off PBf Feedback: I have bob long frame i want to switch over too but i only have double frames and i hate to cut the double trigger unless i just absolutely have to... funny thing. I dont think I've ever seen a spyder single trigger in my life, weird.
|
|
|
Post by oldironmudder on Apr 3, 2009 21:04:16 GMT -5
I saw a lot of 20ish single trigger Spyder with in the past few months. Prolly sold fast. I some how found a DYE single with the gaurd cut off & double trigger installed. Im gonna have a new single trigger milled from 6061 Alum. then a bit of frame milling & fab up a gaurd.
|
|
|
Post by magmaster on Apr 6, 2009 13:05:02 GMT -5
Ok so i abandoned the mag pistol idea... and I am waiting on the pump spyder because the pump kit i have ... well it's for a cocker and i have two cockers in the mail and i'm now kicking around the idea of converting one of them instead. Not sure what projects that any of you cats out there might be doin but if you need something shoot me a pm. I have tons of parts some for guns i don't even have.
|
|